Buyer confidence in A/W13 shows as exceptional business is written at Pure London

Pure London, organised by i2i Events Group, closed its doors yesterday following three days of good business as high calibre buyers and retailers attended from across the UK and overseas. Now in its 33^rd season, the show is one of Europe’s leading transactional exhibitions, making it an excellent barometer for how retail is fairing in the current climate. A buoyant, confident mood was reported at the show with positive feedback from both exhibitors and retailers alike.

 

The 'who’s who’ of fashion buying attended Pure London, including many retailers found on this year’s Drapers Inspiring Indies shortlist, and winner ‘The Dressing Room’. Key independent retailers such as Anne Furbank, Attic, Black White Denim, Diffusion, Doodie Stark, Lewis Yates, Love KR, M&Co, Okeefe, Richmond Classics, and AB10 were joined by etailers such as ASOS, Amazon, Figleaves, and BrandAlley. This season saw an increase in department store buyers with the likes of Fenwick, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, House of Fraser, Debenhams, Selfridges and Hoopers, whilst the high street was out in force with names including Author, Berties, Dune, Joy, Mango, Monsoon, New Look, Next, Oasis, Office, Top Shop, Urban Outfitters, and Warehouse all visiting the show.

 

‘It’s been great to see so many new and diverse brands, I thought I was coming to see brands I already stock, but there is such a great atmosphere, buzz and excitement at Pure London, that I picked up a new jewellery brand and niche clothing brand, who I want to keep under wraps.  Pure London is a great platform to discover new and exciting brands, I can see them in their studios but it is great to see them next to each other.’  Enthused Sarah Clare, Owner of What Sarah Did, Hertfordshire.

 

Exhibitors reported plenty of orders being written by quality retailers from all sectors. Fiona Freeman, Production Co-ordinator of womenswear brand Darling, commented; ‘We have had an amazing show; it has been consistently busy across the three days and we have taken lots of good orders. This season has been a lot better for us than the last, we have all really enjoyed being at the show, there is a great atmosphere.’

 

 

 

 

This season over 1,000 brands were presented including directional fashion, footwear and accessories. Underlying the importance of Pure London on the international buying calendar, the show played host to buyers from Europe including France, Germany, Italy, and Spain, and as far afield as Hong Kong, Japan and Australia. Mark Ashton, Managing Director of Little Mistress, commented; ‘The reaction to our new collection has been really strong. We came with a target of signing 60 new accounts for Little Mistress and we achieved 75% of that figure by the end of the first day. New accounts have been opened in new international markets including South Africa, Spain, Cyprus, Belgium and Luxemburg.

 

Pure London focuses on bringing key international retailers and brands to the show and this season presented 320 international labels, a year on year increase of 6%. Amongst these were 63 French brands, 35 Italian brands, 49 Spanish, 12 Portuguese and 18 German.  An international team is now in place headed by International Sales Director, Hans Stoter, with representatives in key markets including France, Germany, Spain, Portugal and Italy.

 

Footwear saw a big increase in interest from buyers as Pure London now presents the strongest and most directional offering of branded footwear in the UK. Brands included Kat Maconie, Melissa, French Connection, Hudson Shoes, J Shoes, Moda In Pelle, and Julian Hakes.

 

The feedback from the floor was overwhelmingly positive. Claire Bank, Managing Director of Moda in Pelle, commented; ‘We have attracted a lot of new buyers both from the UK and internationally, our collection has been received really well. We have had an excellent show and love the expansion and new layout of the Gallery Level, it works perfectly with our brand and our positioning.'

 

While Alex Chupin of K By Karston stated, ‘This is our first time at the show; we love the environment and atmosphere. We have had lots of great interest with quality buyers, we can’t fault Pure London.’

 

Kelly Baker, Assistant Buyer of Dune Group, commented, ‘We come to the show each season and today we are on the lookout for accessories. Pure London is a brilliant resource for us; right on our doorstep and fantastic for new ideas and inspiration.’

 

Buyers and retailers visit Pure London to write orders and source new collections, but are also using the show as a vital live resource for business advice. Over 50 hours of insight from 75 top industry experts was showcased over three stages. Speakers included Julie Deane, Founder of The Cambridge Satchel Company, British designer Zandra Rhodes and CEO of People Tree Safia Minney, Richard Pollin, Head of Business at Google, and James Barnett, Production Coordinator of Selfridges.

 

In particular there was an increased interest in ‘clicks and bricks’ with a hunger for knowledge of online retailing. Draper’s Editor in Chief, Caroline Nodder, chaired a discussion panel about ‘The Future of the independent fashion market’ on Sunday to a full theatre, while David Walter, CEO of Little Black Dress, discussed the importance of staying ahead online to an audience on Monday.

 

Deryane Tadd, Owner of award winning store The Dressing Room, St Albans, commented; ‘We have had appointments with existing brands and have written orders. We always come to Pure London to have a look for new brands and to see what is out in the market. The seminars and content at the show are amazing!  As an indie I can’t always afford to take time out to go to seminars, Pure London offers great business advice and product all under one roof.’

 

Jan Shutt, Owner of Sunday Best in Rossendale, commented; ‘Pure London is a great venue to catch up with some inspirational indies and share notes as networking is such an important part of any business. By listening to others it can give you an indication of what’s hot and what’s not!’

 

Taking the show forward, the Pure London team has seen a restructure to bring additional expertise into a strong retail portfolio, which includes Pure London, The Jewellery Show, Jewellery Show London, Spring Fair and Autumn Fair. New appointments include Louise Young, Managing Director of Retail, Julie Driscoll, Portfolio Director for Fashion and Jewellery, and Katie Nicholls, Brand Manager for Fashion and Jewellery. 

 

Julie Driscoll, Portfolio Director for Fashion and Jewellery, commented; ‘We have had a fantastic show! It is an exciting time for Pure London. We are listening to buyers and exhibitors and held focus groups on-site on what we can do to make this the best show in the market. I look forward to implementing the feedback and taking Pure London forward for seasons to come.’

 

Pure London is set to take over London Olympia once again this August for its Spring/Summer 2014 edition. From the 4^th-6^th August 2013, over 1,000 brands will be welcomed to the show as they debut their latest collections for S/S14.

Buoyant Mood Results in Great Business at Pure London

The 'who’s who of fashion buying attended Pure London this weekend and exhibitors reported plenty of orders being written and good business being done. The show closed its doors on Tuesday having maintained visitor numbers year-on-year and key buyers were committed to spending more time than ever at the show with a sharp increase of 16% returning for a second and third day of buying.

Visitors included Darkroom, Donna Ida, Browns, Black White Denim, O’Keefe, Bank, Harrods, Next, Elisabeth May Shoe Boutique, ASOS, Amazon, Choice, Snooty Frox of Harrogate, Arnotts, Hoopers, Figleaves.com, Selfridges, Pretaportobello.com, Start Boutique, Sunday Best, John Lewis, Harvey Nichols, House of Fraser, Fenwick, Net-a-porter, Black Truffle and The Dressing Room.

With over 1,000 brands, including 250 new to the show, and the addition of new sections including Pure Body showcasing lingerie, swimwear and shapewear, Pure Junior housing top childrenswear, and the French Boulevard with a selection on French accessory brands; Pure London has expanded in size opening up into the new West Hall Level 1.

‘It has been a huge show this year, it’s a show I cannot miss, I have visited every day there is just so much to see. I have found three new exciting collections, and the French Boulevard has been an interesting addition the show. Pure London is a must for buyers; it gives a great overview of the market, and is the best place to find new up and coming brands’ commented Jan Shutt, Managing Director, Sunday Best.

Exciting content on stage at Pure London has been key to a creating a positive visitor experience, with better buying and better business high on the agenda. This season saw seminar attendance at an all-time high with the unbeatable line up of speakers attracting more than 2,550 buyers over the three days. Sixty industry experts took to the three stages including founder of MJM International, Michelle Mone OBE who spoke to a packed audience on building her empire, while Brix Smith-Start took to the stage to discuss her top trends for spring / summer 13. The addition of the new Gallery Stage allowed buyers to see the accessory, footwear, lingerie and swimwear trends translated for the season and the Queen of British Fashion, Zandra Rhodes presented the launch of her handbag range.

 

 

‘I always come to Pure London, I come twice a year and I’m always very excited about it! What a show it is this season! The stands are all looking so beautiful and I think everyone has really gone for it this year! This season I was so excited about coming to see the seminars. The WGSN forecasts are always amazing! It really inspires you for the next season’ commented Janine O’Keefe from O’Keefe’s.

Tracie Charity, Merchandise Manager of Fenwick commented ‘At Pure London we are able to get inspiration, ideas and it’s always on trend. Today we have seen fantastic brands and a wide range that are a perfect fit for us! ‘

International attendance was strong with visitors attending from over 72 countries including Ireland, Germany, France, Spain, Italy, Scandinavia and the US and from as far afield as Australia, Brazil, Japan, Hong Kong and UAE. Seth Prezioso, Commercial Director of Angels Never Die commented ‘ We have opened lots of new accounts in countries such as New Zealand, Australia, Germany, Hong Kong and France.'

 Buyers saw the biggest selection of womenswear, footwear, accessories, premium brands, young fashion, intimate wear and childrenswear all under one roof, with many brands choosing to present their S/S13 collections exclusively at Pure London. Womenswear brands included Almost Famous, Fenn Wright Manson, Pamplemousse and Fever alongside top young fashion brands Little Mistress, Kat Von D Los Angeles, Glamorous.

Danielle Butter, Wholesale Manager at Mina commented ‘ It has been a great show. We have had some new customers both internationally and from the UK . Monday was very busy for us, this is the only show we come to at the moment, it is great to see all our clients here.’

Footwear and accessory brands included Jeffrey Campbell, Becksondergaard, Melissa, House of Harlow 1960, French Sole, Tatty Devine, Sultanesque and Christian Lacroix.

Pure Junior launched this season in the National Hall, with selected childrenswear brands including Yumi Girls, More Stories, Crew, Little Marc Jacobs and French Connection Kids. Ally Tayler, Director of childrenswear brand Kite commented ‘ We have seen a lot of buyers and have had lots of new leads from people we would normally not see. We have spoken to lots of womenswear buyers who are considering placing orders with us.’

Within the new hall, the Pure Body section dedicated to lingerie and swimwear has been a great success. Huge demand and fantastic feedback from visitors means this section will grow significantly in 2013. Laura Fuser, Export Manager of Cosabella confirmed ‘ Pure Lingerie has been an excellent show for us, much better than we expected. We have met with some great retailers. The atmosphere that been created around the new Gallery Catwalk has been superb.’

‘I have been thrilled to spend three days in such a positive environment, despite all the challenges in the industry right now the atmosphere has been buoyant. We have had a great show with both the clothing line and the launch of footwear, writing orders with all the right buyers’ commented Mark Hackney, Kat Von D.

 

Sarah Lawrence, Event Director of Pure London summed up the mood at Pure: ‘The overall vibe of Pure London has been extremely positive amongst both exhibitors and visitors. The combination of exciting features, catwalks, seminar content and brands have all contributed to an exciting and inspiring event. We are already looking forward to the next show 10-12 February 2013.’

THE DRAPERS FASHION AWARDS SHORTLIST IS ANNOUNCED

Leading fashion trade magazine, Drapers have unveiled the shortlist of its annual awards. As the Oscars of the fashion industry the winners of the Drapers Fashion Awards will be announced on November 16th 2011 at Grosvenor House, London. The glamorous event will be attended by key industry figures and will celebrate the very best in fashion retail.

Finalists were selected across a range of categories by a panel of expert Drapers journalists, recognising the achievements of businesses as diverse as independent boutiques, high street chains, innovative etailers, best-selling brands and inspirational collections.

The Drapers team will be visiting and researching the shortlisted finalists over the coming weeks before the final judging sessions in October bring together a panel of well-known fashion heavyweights to hear the evidence and choose the winners.
There will also be a special award for one outstanding individual who has made significant contribution to the industry.

From ASOS.com, Forever 21, Harrods, John Lewis, JD Sports to top brands such as Day Birger, Almost Famous, Lyle & Scott, Fred Perry and the very best independent retailers across the country, the awards are coveted by retailers and seen as the fashion event of the year.

Caroline Nodder, Drapers Editor in Chief, said: “To have made it through to this stage is a major achievement for all the finalists and they should be very proud of themselves and their teams for getting this far. But now the hard work begins as the Drapers team travel the length and breadth of the country gathering the evidence that will inform our expert panel in choosing this year’s winners. I look forward to welcoming our finalists and indeed a good many of my industry colleagues to the awards in November to hear the results announced.”

We can't wait to find out the winners.

The Shortlist

Best New Business of the Year
3:Eleven
Black White Denim
Garmentquarter
Melanie Boutique
Number 8
Urban Vintage
Wolf & Badger

Best New Store or Department of the Year
Boux Avenue, Bluewater Shopping Centre
Debenhams Edition, UK and Ireland Stores
Forever 21, Oxford Street, London
Monsoon, Oxford Street, London
Next, Eldon Square, Newcastle upon Tyne
White Stuff, George Street, Edinburgh

Best Shopping Experience
A Suit That Fits
John Lewis
M&Co
New Look
White Stuff

Department Store of the Year
Debenhams
Fields of Sidmouth
Goulds
Harrods
John Lewis
Psyche

High Street Retailer of the Year
Debenhams
Dorothy Perkins
Forever 21
John Lewis
M&Co
Primark
Warehouse

Larger Etailer of the Year
Asos
BrandAlley
Debenhams
Farfetch
John Lewis
My-Wardrobe
New Look
Topman

Lingerie Retailer of the Year
Debenhams
John Lewis
Plums
Pudding
Saint Belle
The Dressing Room

Marketing Initiative of the Year
Debenhams
Diesel
Donna Ida
La Senza
Monsoon Accessorize
New Look
Topshop

Menswear Retailer of the Year
Chemical Records, Bristol
Hub, Stoke Newington, London
Jules B, Newcastle Upon Tyne
Kiosk 78, Leeds City Centre
Signature, Aberdeen
Van Mildert, Middlesborough

Smaller Etailer of the Year
A Suit That Fits
Donna Ida
Girl Meets Dress
Jules B
Missguided
Not Just A Label
Pretty Green
Upper Street

Best Value Retailer
Forever 21
George at Asda
M&Co
Matalan
Peacocks
Primark

Womenswear Retailer of the Year
Bernard Esher, Surrey
Boudoir Boutique, Liverpool
Boudoir Femme, Cambridge
Donna Ida, Guildford
Iris, Queens Park, London
Jules B, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The Womens Society, Hertford
The Dressing Room, St Albans

Young Fashion Retailer of the Year
25 Ten, Boutique, Rochdale
Fallen Hero, Scunthorpe
Fusion, Wadebridge, Cornwall
Kiwi Boutique, Guisborough
Mki Miyuki-Zoku, Leeds
Urban Vintage, Urban Vintage
Utter Nutter, Romford, Essex

Growing Retailer of the Year
Apricot
ASOS
Forever 21
Hallett Retail
JD Sports

Young Fashion Brand of the Year
Carhartt
Duck & Cover
Firetrap
Fred Perry
Luke Roper
Original Penguin

Menswear Brand of the Year
Lyle & Scott
Pretty Green
Without Prejudice
Ben Sherman
DS Dundee
Farah Vintage

Womenswear Brand of the Year
Almost Famous
Day Birger
Fever
Basler
Darling
Jackpot

Short Order/Quick Response Brand of the Year
Lazy Oaf
Little Mistress
Motel
Rare
Ruby Rocks
TFNC

Do you know an Inspiring Independent?

Then let us know at inspiringindies@drapersonline.com


We know that the UK and Republic of Ireland's fashion indies are some of the most exciting and innovative in the world, so Drapers and Pure London have launched a new project to celebrate that success.

Inspiring Independents will identify the country's 50 best in class indies and showcase them in a specially-produced supplement and at an exclusive celebratory party. But we want you to nominate which fashion retailers should make the cut.

We want to hear about all of the fashion indies you admire and why.
They can operate in womenswear, menswear, young fashion, lingerie, kidswear, footwear and accessories or indeed stock a mixture of all of these categories. The only proviso is that the businesses you nominate must have fewer than 11 stores and they must be multi-brand retailers that have a bricks and mortar operation.
Drapers will compile a shortlist of the most nominated 50 indies on December 3, and then ask those indies to rank their favourite five peers.

The Inspiring Indies celebratory supplement, ranking those indies, will be published with Drapers in February - and each indie's final position in the top 50 will be unveiled at an exclusive invitation-only event held on the opening evening of London tradeshow Pure London and Pure Spirit on February 13 at a top London location.

Email your nominations and your reasons now to inspiringindies@drapersonline.com

DEADLINE 3rd DECEMBER 2010